PART II:
RESEARCH
GYLD is an evolving design practice dedicated to creating pop-up experiences that showcase emerging biomaterial innovators and foster collaborations between material scientists and fashion designers. More than just a retail concept, we craft immersive spaces where the future of materials comes to life—at the intersection of craft, innovation, and design.
The Research
GYLD is built on deep industry research, developed through a dual-track approach that combines design research—including landscape analysis, market research, and in-depth qualitative interviews—with hands-on lab experimentation with biomaterials. This seven-month research process shaped our strategy for GYLD, identifying key barriers and opportunities in biomaterial adoption within the fashion industry.
GYLD is progressing into its next phase, concentrating on finalizing the spatial design for our first pop-up and solidifying partnerships with leading biomaterial designers. At the same time, we’re working with sustainable finance experts to shape our business model, ensuring long-term profitability, sustainability, and a positive environmental impact.
A dual track approach:
Hands-on Experimentation + Design Research
INSIGHT
Through numerous iterations with SCOBY, many experiments failed to yield a viable batch, highlighting the instability and scalability challenges of working with living materials. These difficulties not only exposed the limitations of biomaterial innovation but also revealed a need for focused spotlight on these materials to receive the investment and attention they deserve.
This insight directly influenced GYLD’s business model. By offering a platform for collaboration and visibility, we aim to bridge the gap between cutting-edge materials and the resources necessary for their scalability and success in fashion.
LAB RESEARCH
PROCESS
As part of my exploration into sustainable design, I adopted the Material-Driven Design (MDD) methodology, which centers material properties as the starting point for innovation and application. This allowed me to experiment iteratively with SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast), a regenerative, biodegradable material that challenges traditional approaches to fashion and design. We leveraged MDD application as a case study to expose key challenges and pain points in biomaterial innovation.
QUALITATIVE INTERVIEWS
OVERVIEW
We conducted 10 in-depth, qualitative interviews across industries, including biomaterial innovators, fashion professionals, academic experts, and target consumers, to gain insights into the biodesign space.
KEY INSIGHTS
Scaling-Up: One of the greatest challenges in this field is the difficulty of scaling production processes.
Siloed Research: A lack of cross-industry collaboration and fragmented development processes create inefficiencies and hinder standardization.
Funding Issues: Smaller studios face significant barriers in securing funding, limiting their ability to invest in advanced technologies and scale production.
Consumer Trust: The absence of clear communication erodes consumer confidence in new materials.
Value Proposition: Innovators struggle to effectively communicate the benefits of biobased materials to both consumers and investors.
CONCEPT 1
Living Futures emerged as an initial concept based on key insights from our lab research, literature review, and industry interviews. This immersive exhibition blends storytelling, spatial design, and regenerative materials to offer a multi-sensory exploration of the evolving relationship between fashion and nature.
MARKET RESEARCH
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SPIDER CHART
A spider chart was employed to conduct a comparative analysis of top immersive experiences and a healthier materials exhibition. This evaluation aimed to establish benchmarks across six critical variables within the competitive landscape. Seven competitors were assessed to provide a comprehensive understanding of the exhibition environment. The resulting chart facilitated the identification of optimal performance targets for the proposed concept.
Analysis revealed that virality is a crucial factor for maximizing audience engagement and achieving socio-environmental impact. Extension opportunities and provocativeness were identified as key drivers for influencing change. While education was deemed less critical in comparison, its relative importance remained significant. This reflects the reality that audiences often approach exhibitions as leisure activities, where overt educational focus may hinder engagement. The plotted concept demonstrated the potential for strategic positioning, highlighting areas for development to align with established benchmarks and achieve desired outcomes.
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ALLUVIAL DIAGRAM: TARGET AUDIENCE
Alluvial charts analyzed 23 competitors across immersive exhibitions, biomaterials, and fashion to inform concept strategy. Two charts assessed Impact (6 streams) and Target Audiences (7 categories). This dual analysis defined our concept’s strategic focus within the competitive landscape.
The Target Audience chart identified key segments, guiding our focus on art exhibit enthusiasts, media, and fashion consumers for maximum reach and impact.
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ALLUVIAL DIAGRAM: IMPACT
The Impact chart revealed competitor priorities, positioning our concept to emphasize public engagement and environmental impact, followed by consumer mindset shifts, with sustainable financial support.
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MARKET SIZE ANALYSIS
To assess the potential market for this experiential exhibition concept within New York City, we utilized the TAM SAM SOM (Total Addressable Market, Serviceable Addressable Market, Serviceable Obtainable Market) framework. This approach allowed us to systematically define and quantify the market opportunity, focusing on the potential for broad audience reach and impactful change.
Given the exhibition’s objective to drive change through widespread engagement, understanding the market’s scale within New York City, with specific audience criteria, was crucial.
We utilized Facebook Audience Insights to analyze the potential market within a 10-mile radius of New York City, focusing on individuals aged 18-60. This tool provides a data-driven estimate of audience segments based on their interests, demographics, and engagement behaviors across Facebook and Instagram. Facebook Audience Insights calculates data by analyzing user activity, including page likes, event attendance, content engagement, and ad interactions. It aggregates this information to estimate audience size and characteristics, allowing us to gauge market potential and refine our target audience.
CONCEPT TESTING
METHODOLOGY
This study employed a qualitative concept testing methodology to evaluate the exhibition design concept and gather comprehensive feedback from key stakeholders within the system. A purposive sampling strategy was utilized to ensure diverse perspectives, encompassing individuals ranging from bio-material designers to fashion journalists and investors. This selection aimed to capture a holistic understanding of the concept’s potential impact and identify critical factors influencing its success.
Brief, structured interviews, lasting 20-30 minutes, were conducted. These “burst interviews” consisted of 4-5 open-ended questions designed to elicit qualitative insights and detailed observations.
Data analysis involved a thematic approach, where observations from each interview were systematically reviewed and synthesized to identify recurring patterns and key insights. These insights will inform the refinement of the concept and guide the development of a prototype.
As of the current stage, 12 interviews have been completed. We have already reached out to over 20 stakeholders and are actively pursuing further engagement to expand the participant pool and ensure a more comprehensive and robust evaluation of the exhibition design concept.
